West Roxbury Transcript

Chef is Centre of attention

By Carolyn McKibbin, August 11, 2005

This is the second in a series of stories about chefs in West Roxbury and Roslindale.

The man to thank for the all-American flavors at one of West Roxbury's favorite restaurants is pan-roasting a white, meaty hunk of striped sea bass.

Michael McEwen, executive chef at West on Centre, does what he knows best. He cooks with an all-encompassing palate influenced by the many cuisines he has mastered at different restaurants all over Boston.

And he is not ashamed to add butter, an American staple, to this seafood delicacy.

"Most people don't realize how much butter chefs actually use," said McEwen, a devilish grin on his face. "But it adds so much flavor."

McEwen removes the sea bass from the flame and places it alongside fingerling potatoes, leaving it to cook in the oven a bit. Meanwhile, he boils a few clams and sautés miniature yellow patty pans. When the cooking has come to a harmonious end, McEwen arranges each element neatly on a wide white plate and touches a bit of prepared succotash as a final tasty treat.

If it was the butter that induced the fish's rich tenderness and crispy skin, God bless America. And the sweet-smelling combination of squash, corn and lima beans in the succotash - a Native American specialty know as the Three Sisters - makes a diner equally proud to be an American, or at least in America.

This entree is a summertime special at West, a popular request along with best-selling options of grilled pork chops, grilled lamb skewers and pan-seared haddock. Prices for the entrees start at $16; the sea bass costs $22. McEwen, who has been here since the restaurant opened just over a year ago, said he made the menu diverse enough to offer something to everyone - there is even a kids' menu.

"I take care of the neighborhood since this is a neighborhood place," said McEwen, 31, who is of medium build with olive skin and green eyes. He has dark, thick hair and scruffy goatee, and speaks in a calm explanative voice.

McEwen is from Peabody and lives in Jamaica Plain. He graduated with a culinary arts degree in 1994 from Johnson and Wales University in R.I., and has worked at a number of Boston restaurants, including Salamander and Peking Tom's, which is owned by West owners Joe Greene and Michael Conlon.

McEwen said his resume must have been floating around town, and happened to fall into Greene and Conlon's hands. He got a call one day and was asked to join the staff at West.

"He's very talented - he knows what we're looking to do," said Conlon. "He offers a lot of choices to the neighborhood without trying to be a crazy celebrity chef. He's a great guy, easy to work with and gets along great with the kitchen and work staff, which is a big part of being a chef."

West pastry chef and McEwen's cousin, Michelle McEwen, does not have problems working so close with a family member. In fact, it is just the opposite, and she has been doing it on-and-off for seven years.

"He is knowledgeable and takes the time to teach people the right way to do something," said Michelle McEwen. "He's energetic, friendly and personable."

McEwen's easy-going demeanor helps keep the often packed restaurant that seats up to 140 people in the main dining room, lounge and bar a smooth, enjoyable experience. To combat the stress of working six days a week at such a popular restaurant, McEwen enjoys taking road trips to seaport towns Gloucester, Westport and Newport.

"I take it one step at a time," said McEwen. "The most important thing to do is not get overwhelmed, know your stuff and be prepared - and make sure everyone is being taken care of."